Saturday 7 June 2014

Most Beautiful Cemetery

All cemeteries have a kind of rus in urbe appeal - open space, greenery, mature trees - and then there's the added appeal of statuary and monumental stonework. Also, paradoxically, they're usually full of life. 
Excepting the over-neat mown-and-clipped-to-within-an-inch-of-its-life municipal cemetery with gravestones conforming to council regulations, most cemeteries are ecological enclaves for insect and wildlife, pockets of the nearest thing to actual countryside in or near towns. 

Considering the actual countryside itself isn't that much like countryside anymore, more swathes of pesticide-drenched monocultures with no hedges or margins, cemeteries are often the nearest thing to country in the country. And they aren't just parks without the football, children and dogshit in towns, either; they're a network of nature reserves.


So they're all beautiful in one way or another, but which is the prettiest that you know?


Let's have some tips and recommendations, places to look out for when we visit new towns, or unsuspected gems in our own area.


My tip might be a bit of a way off for most of you, but it's actually worth a trip in its own right. Skogskyrkogården in Stockholm.


Pronounced skog-shirker-gordon, "The Woodland Cemetery" is a Unesco world heritage site, and it deserves to be. It's an immaculate marriage of landscape and architecture, designed by Gunnar Asplund (one of the inventors of Swedish Modernism) and Sigurd Lewerentz.


The first time I went there it was covered in snow, and the only other people we saw all day were Marc Newson and his mate. He's an Australian designer (Marc Newson, not his mate. But I suppose his mate might have been an Australian designer, too, for all I know).


It's like a giant landscape sculpture that you walk around and in, where everything is perfectly placed and balanced. If you're in Stockholm, make the effort. You won't be sorry, it's only 15 minutes from town on the green tunnelbana line and it's got its own station.

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